Riding as a Passenger in Ha Giang: What Pillion Riders Should Know

Plenty of people on our tours never touch the throttle. They do the whole trip as a pillion passenger on the Ha Giang Loop, sitting behind one of our local drivers or behind a friend. By dinner on the first night, most of them are glad they did.

It is still three or four days on the back of a motorbike, though, on mountain roads, in whatever weather the hills decide to send. Nobody warns you about the numb legs, the exhaust pipe or the urge to doze off after lunch. This guide covers all of that, so the only surprise is the view.

Two ways to ride as a pillion passenger with us

There are two passenger options on our tours, and they suit different people.

Easyrider. You sit behind a local driver from our team who rides these roads all year. No driving licence is needed, and our tour page marks it as highly recommended for first-timers. It costs $160 on the 3-day tour and $196 on the 4-day tour.

Seat Behind Your Friend. Your friend drives, you sit behind them. This is the cheapest way onto the loop: 2.850.000đ ($114) on the 3-day tour and 3.850.000đ (about $154) on the 4-day tour. Your friend needs an International Driving Permit under the 1968 Vienna Convention and their home licence to drive.

We are honest about the second option. Riding two-up on Ma Pi Leng in the rain is not the place for your friend to learn. If they have not carried a passenger on a manual or semi-automatic bike before, pay the difference and ride with a driver. If you are still deciding between riding and sitting, our comparison of self-riding and easy rider tours goes through it in detail.

How a pillion passenger should sit

Being a pillion passenger feels strange for the first hour, then your body works it out. A few habits make it easier for you and for the person in front.

Hold the grab rail behind you or the driver’s waist, whichever feels steadier. Hold it lightly. A death grip tires your arms long before lunch.

Lean with the bike, not against it. On a bend, look over your driver’s shoulder on the inside of the turn and let your body follow the bike. Sitting bolt upright, or leaning the other way to “help”, makes the bike harder to steer.

Keep your feet on the foot pegs the whole time, including when the bike stops. The exhaust pipe runs along the right side of most bikes and gets hot enough to burn bare skin through thin trousers. Climb on and off on the left, and only after your driver says so.

Do not shift your weight suddenly to take a photo. Tap your driver’s shoulder instead, and they will pull in somewhere safe.

A full day as a pillion passenger

Day one on our tours is about 120 km. That sounds short until you add mountain roads, photo stops and lunch. The first thing you feel is your backside, usually around mid-morning. Then your lower back, then cold hands if the cloud comes down.

Stand up at every stop and walk around for a few minutes. A folded fleece on the seat helps on the last afternoon. Sunscreen matters more than you think, because the wind hides the burn on your face and the backs of your hands.

The other thing passengers tell us is how sleepy they get after lunch. Warm sun, a full stomach and a steady engine is a strong mix. If you feel your head drop, say so. We stop, you walk around, and nobody minds.

What a pillion passenger should wear and carry

We give every rider a helmet and basic protective gear. The rest is up to you.

• Closed shoes with a proper sole, not sandals. Our guide to the best shoes for the loop explains why.
• Long trousers, even in summer, for the sun and the exhaust pipe.
• A warm layer and gloves from October to March. The plateau is cold in the morning.
• A rain poncho big enough to cover you and your bag.
• A small backpack you can wear for hours. Big bags ride strapped to the bike or stay in Ha Giang city.
• A phone strap, if you plan to take photos while moving.

For the full list, see what to pack for the Ha Giang Loop.

Talking to your driver

Our drivers speak enough English for the road, and the guide fills the gaps at stops. Agree a few simple signals before you set off. A tap on the shoulder can mean stop for a photo, a thumbs up all good, and a flat hand pushing down slow down.

Tell your driver before you leave if fast corners make you nervous. They adjust. They also know which viewpoints have room to pull in and which ones are just a gap in the barrier, so ask them where the good photos are.

Who should ride as a pillion passenger

Riding pillion makes sense if you do not hold a motorbike licence, if you have never ridden a manual or semi-automatic bike, or if mountain roads make you tense. It also suits photographers, who can shoot while the bike moves. Couples often split it, with one person driving and one behind, and our guide to the Ha Giang Loop for couples covers that setup.

It is a good choice for older travellers too. Our guide to the Ha Giang Loop for older people goes further on pace and comfort.

The one group it does not suit is riders who came to ride. If you have the licence and the experience, you will spend three days wishing you were in front. Book the self-drive option instead.

Tipping your driver

Tips are not included in the tour price, and nothing is expected. Most pillion passengers do tip their easy rider at the end, because they spent three or four days trusting that person with their life. If you want a figure to work from, our guide on how much to tip on the Ha Giang Loop gives amounts in VND.

Ride the Ha Giang Loop with Mr. Biu

Every one of our tours runs with both options, so a group can mix drivers, self-riders and passengers on the same trip. If you are not sure which seat suits you, start by reading about riding behind one of our local easy riders, then ask us anything.

Ha Giang Motorbike Tour 3 Days 2 Nights

The classic loop through Thai An, Du Gia, Ma Pi Leng and Dong Van, with two homestay nights. It is also the three-day tour, sitting behind a friend, from 2.850.000đ ($114). With an easy rider it is $160.

Ha Giang Motorbike Tour 4 Days 3 Nights

One more day, for Lung Cu Flag Pole, a Lo Lo village and Lung Khuy Cave, which means shorter days in the saddle for passengers. From 3.850.000đ (about $154) behind a friend, or $196 with an easy rider.

See every option on our tours page or book online. You can also contact us, message us on WhatsApp at (+84) 3272 58338, or email mrbiu.booking@gmail.com. More about who we are is on the Mr. Biu Tour Ha Giang homepage.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a licence to ride as a pillion passenger on the Ha Giang Loop?

No. Passengers do not need a licence. Only the person driving needs an International Driving Permit and a home licence, and on an easy rider tour that is our driver.

Is it safe to ride on the back of a motorbike in Ha Giang?

It is as safe as the person driving. That is why we recommend an experienced local driver over a friend who has never carried a passenger in the mountains.

How much does an easy rider cost on the Ha Giang Loop?

With us, $160 for 3 days and 2 nights, and $196 for 4 days and 3 nights. The price includes the driver, fuel, meals, homestays and entrance tickets.

What should a pillion passenger wear?

Closed shoes, long trousers, a warm layer and a rain poncho. We provide the helmet and basic protective gear.

Will I get bored as a pillion passenger?

Most people do not. You have both hands free for photos, more time to look around, and a driver to ask about every village you pass.